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SATPURA NATIONAL PARK & TIGER RESERVE
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INTRODUCTION: Satpura National Park is cradled in the Satpura Range (Mahadeo Hills) and straddles the State of Madhya Pradesh. With the adjoining Bori & Panchmarhi Sanctuaries, Satpura N.P. provides 1427 sq. kms of unique Central Indian Highland ecosystem cover to India's wild denizens. Satpura N.P.(set up in 1981 and 524 sq. km) is beautiful and unspoiled. It represents nature at its very best. The fascinating deep valleys, high mountains, rivulets, waterfalls and Tawa's vast reservoir combine to give this Park an unique beauty. The terrain is extremely rugged and consists of sandstone peaks, narrow gorges, ravines and dense forests. The altitude ranges from 300 Mts. to 1352 Mts. From the 4500 feet Dhoopgarh peak to the almost level plains of Churna the ride is only 60 kms but it takes about 5 hours to travel from the cool environs of Panchmarhi resort to the edge of the Tawa reservoir. This Park is unlike the safari park atmosphere of Ranthambhore, Bandhavgar, Kaziranga, Gir and many more of that type. A Satpura experience is not a conducted tour jamboree. Here creature comforts are for the creatures of the forest. If you are a keen wildlife enthusiast and are the sort who travel miles to just breathe jungle air & marvel at the sights and sounds of nature, a few days at Satpura is for you. Amenities are basic but functional. Your hosts, the Forest Department Staff, are wonderful and are any day a better choice than their well-heeled cousins at the more popular and commercial parks, which attract tourists and not nature lovers.
The scene, however, dramatically changes as the lights go down. Churna is full of life and almost every turn yields a surprised Sambar stag or a foraging sloth bear. You get a momentary glimpse before the dense foliage hides its comrades from the preying eyes. Darkness pierced by the spotlights present a magical vista, foreboding yet magnetic. The forest tracks are basic and little used. Be ready to hold on for your life as the Jeep hurtles through a sea of grass taller than the roof of your open vehicle. The winter nights are bitter cold, and as you shiver in the darkness your attention is drawn to the dual pugmarks painting the tracks you left behind an hour ago. Jungle darkness, a single and open car, and a pair of predators on the loose is what my dreams of Wild India is made up of. The forests of Satpura can make such dreams come true. But this paradise, like many others in our country, is threatened. Politics and population are a lethal combination and animals don't have votes.....and even if they did, it wouldn't count for much given the dwindling numbers. There are 17 villages inside the Park and Sanctuary area and if that is not enough of a disturbance, the neighbors also make merry. The law allows one head load of fallen forest produce for people who are dependent on the forest. You would only need to spend a few minutes on the national highway before you loose count of the number of people apparently dependent on the riches of nature. It is not absurd to imagine total habitat destruction in M.P. if this rate of denudation continues in the name of protection of the forest cover.
How to get there: Satpura N.A. & Bori Sanctuary can be approached from Panchmarhi. Pachmarhi is connected by regular bus services with Bhopal, Hoshangabad, Nagpur, Pipariya and Chhindwara, Taxis are available at Pipariya. Pipariya (47km), on the Bombay-Howrah main-line via Allahabad, is the most convenient railhead. The nearest airport is Bhopal (195km), connected by regular flights with Delhi, Gwalior, Indore and Bombay. Churna is best approached from the eastern side from Pachmarhi. You can also reach it from the west from Itarsi via Bhaura and Dhansai. Itarsi rail junction is 75 kms from Churna while Pachmarhi is 60 kms away. Churna can also be approached from the National Highway by crossing the Tawa Reservoir in a motor launch. This perhaps is the better exit from the park and is just a few hours drive from Bhopal. You can also drive up to Neemghan through the Panarpani gate, which is close to Pachmarhi. For the 30 km drive you can get permits from the Panarpani gate. This is a day trip as no accommodation is available.
Where to Stay: Pachmarhi is a Hill Resort and has many small and medium hotels, which provide you with good accommodation. Hotels like Pachmarhi, Saket, suit the budget of any tourist. Apart from the hotels there are guesthouses (like Amaltas (MP Tourism), Holiday Homes (MPT), Rock-End Manor (MPT)) which are good to stay. Stay inside the park is a must if you want the Satpura experience. Basic accommodation and food is available at the Churna Tourism Bungalow. The stay is comfortable and the amenities are adequate. Bori and Dhain also have Forest Bungalows deep inside the park. All arrangements must be made with the DCF, Satpura Range. What to see: Nature and Central Province wildlife. The reserve is famous for it's Gaur and Giant Squirrels. There are a fair number of tigers and it is possible to sight this majestic animal if you are lucky. Churna seems to be the best location for sighting most of the animals including the rare ones.
Reservations for accommodation at Churna Eco-tourism Center can be made with: Director, Satpura National Park Pachmarhi, 461881, Madhya Pradesh. Tel #: 07578 - 52130. Other Attractions: Rock shelters and ancient rock paintings are present in 130 locations in the park. Some of these paintings are over 10,000 years old.
When to go: December to June is the best time.
Note: All photographs are my property and may not be reproduced without my consent. Email me at sumitsen@rediffmail.com should you need any information or have any feedback.
Visit my Ranthambhore Page. Sunday, July 22, 2001 | |||||||||
